Coreyography

Livin' Large in Cape Town

I'M IN: Cape Town, South Africa
NEXT UP: Mozambique?

Gourmet food, wine wine wine, a mother-lode of art house movies: life is good in Cape Town.  If I could just figure out my phone situation and finally be able to talk to folks at home I would think I'd found Valhalla indeed!  Regardless, I've been having a fantastic time.  To be honest, most of my days thus far have been spent inside a movie theater (I have a lot to catch up on, y'all!).  I've been staying with my friend Michael, who is a most generous host and great company to boot.  I feel quite lucky to have someone to show me around, plus it's such a different experience (and a good one) to visit with someone and their friends rather than stay in a hostel with other travelers.  With all of the above in mind, I'm planning on staying in Cape Town for a bit longer.  There are certainly more movies to see and I will also get outside to see more of the glories of Cape Town.  At some point.

My non-film related activities, mostly completed because Michael is on the ball and planned them, have also been fantastic.  We spent one afternoon in the Kirstenbosch botanical gardens culminating in a concert of the Cape Town philharmonic.  I also attended my first cricket match wherein the Cape Town home team won (Go Cobras!) in a larger score to a smaller score in the time allowed - they report such things in an odd way that I can't remember right now.  This past weekend we went up to Stellenbosch (no shortage of bosches here, clearly) the Napa Valley of South Africa, and had a great day going from vineyard to vineyard.  Plus we have thus far eaten Thai, Italian, French, Cuban and Eritrean food amongst lots of fresh yummy salads and cheese for miles.  So life is sweet indeed, especially when I think about mosquito-infested dorm rooms, warm beer and nshima that have been the norm the past few months.  Not that there's anything wrong with that!  But it's nice to live the high life every now and again.

Gutentag Ya'll!

I'M IN: Swakopmund, having visited Tsumeb, Windhoek & Namib Naukluft National Park all in Namibia
NEXT UP: Cape Town, baby

First of all, Namibia is stunning.  I read in my trusty Lonely Planet that Namibia was a photographer's dream and my reaction was, "What, the rest of Africa is bumpkis?"  But I see what they mean.  The scenery here is really magnificent, and has certainly awoken my inner shutterbug - MANY pictures updated over on Flickr.  I started out in Namibia up North in Tsumeb, where I was hoping to visit Etosha National Park.  This is one of the few places in Africa where you can drive yourself around on safari.  Right now it's raining cats and dogs (lions and hyenas?) up there and the animal viewing is not good.  So I came on to Windhoek where I tried to not feel pouty about the crap movie offerings (The Bucket List?!).  I got a haircut in Windhoek and woo wee, did I get my money's worth - she lopped off just about all of my hair!  Lesson learned: language barriers and haircuts don't mix.  So I'll be having fun with barrettes for the next few months.

Last weekend I splurged out on a very nice trip to Namib-Naukluft National Park, home of Soussevlei dune.  It's a beautiful spot within a beautiful country - mountains and dunes for miles.  We climbed some dunes, and even got to roll down a few.  I'm still finding sand in unusual places.  Who knew the human ear could contain so much sand and still function? 

Namibia feels extremely Westernized - not really like other parts of Africa I've been to at all.  And German spirit and pride is alive and well here.  As with other places with lots of Germans, I've noticed that people here seem vaguely depressed, there are a preponderance of German-made vehicles traveling at high rates of speed and there are signs everywhere, both informational and detailing activities ALLOWED and NOT ALLOWED.  Oh ja.  There are also Dutchish/Afrikaner items about - all these city names for one thing!  Favorite person name spotted so far: Bok van Blerk. 

I have been able to watch exactly zero post-season basketball, which makes me sad.  Hopefully I will have better luck in finding a place to make deviled eggs in honor of Easter this weekend.  Hope the Easter bunny is good to you and yours.

Posh Spice

I'M STILL IN: Livingstone
NEXT UP STILL: Tsumeb, Namibia

Well!  Today I moved from the compound to a proper guesthouse for my last two nights in Livingstone.  I now have: a door to my room, a mosquito net, a fan and a shower WITH a shower curtain.  High cotton, or what?  Rounding out my luxury existence, yesterday I indulged in High Tea at the fancy schmancy Sun International Hotel up by the Falls.  What a treat.  On offer was your choice of tea (I had Green), delightful finger sandwiches and quiches and the most astonishing selection of sweet things I have ever seen.  They had carrot cake.  And crème brûlée!  And really just about anything sweet you can imagine.  I left with the happiest tummy ache ever.

Why am I so cheerful when the last post I was Mayor of Grumpytown?  Because today was my LAST DAY at Nansanzu Basic School.  The staff Entertainment Committee arranged a goodbye ceremony for me (attended by committee members, the Headmaster, the Deputy Head, heads of the Lower, Middle and Upper Basic sections and representatives for all the departments within the school) which was touching beyond belief.  Everyone made speeches saying how much they appreciated me being there, then I was presented with a box of gifts including a carved elephant, a special bowl, a kitenge and a Zambia hat and scarf set!  Truly amazing.  I was there for two and a half weeks.  I've left jobs held for multiple years with less fanfare.  All that was left to do was face down one... last... class.  (Cue spaghetti western music.)  Unfortunately this class was with the dreaded students of 8A, most of whom are part-demon.  And it was the final period of the day.  On a Friday.  No two ways about it, it was horrendous.  I left school equal parts humbled, appreciative of the opportunity, and happy to get back to my easy, breezy life of all travel, no work. 

So this stay in Livingstone has really done it's job.  The sight of my backpack and Lonely Planet again fill me with joy not dread.  And I couldn't be more excited to head to Namibia on Sunday.  I am hoping to do some touring in the North before heading to Windhoek, but I will only be able to resist Windhoek for so long: word comes to me that they have TWO MOVIE THEATERS.  It boggles the mind.  And tomorrow, before I leave, I am taking Matildah and the kids swimming!  I am very excited about this outing, not only to be able to thank these wonderful folks for their incredible generosity, but also to be able to spend some more time together.  They are just fantastic. 

So, best to you!  I hope in your life, as in mine, the troubles presented by 8A's are far outweighed by tables of sweet things, boxes of gifts and the promise of multiple movie theaters.