Coreyography

Arrive Alive: Do Not Fool Yourself, Speed Kills

I'M IN: Durban, having visited Hogsback, Port St. Johns and Umzumbe
NEXT UP: Mozambique for realz

Since I'm all about both remaining alive and being honest with myself, I heeded this sign's advice (posted early and often on South African highways) for the rest of my drive to Durban.  Regardless, I did get into a minor accident in stop-and-go traffic in the regional capital of Mthatha (home of Nelson Mandela, I'm told).  I swiped a minibus-shared-taxi with the dern left hand side of my vehicle - the side the driver should sit on to avoid such situations.  But other than scaring the life out of me, very little damage was sustained (my side mirror cracked, taxi scratched).  Regardless, that taxi driver was sure displeased with me!  I haven't seen such a sourpuss since Greece.  We handled the situation in what I thought was a most agreeable manner - we went to a body shop, got an estimate for the damage and I paid him ~$60.  No cops, no paperwork, no muss, no fuss.  And the car rental company was entirely unfazed, bonus.

The rest of the towns I visited on the Garden Route between Cape Town and Durban continued to delight.  I think it tells you most of what you need to know that the hostel I stayed at in Hogsback is called Away with the Faeries.  Apparently Tolkien lived in South Africa for a while?  Seriously.  Port St. Johns was probably my favorite place of all the little towns I dashed through on this car-leg.  It's in the middle of the former Transkei and felt more like Africa-Africa, which is novel here.  It's also beautiful and has a kind of hippie vibe.  In Umzumbe I stayed at a surfing hostel where they were having a fancy-dress birthday party and braai for the hostel owner.  At home we would call this a costume party and grilling out.  Whatever: there was chutney and I was happy.

So I definitely enjoyed my road trip but am also happy to get out of the car and back on my own two feet and/or forms of transport where other people deal.  To that end, I'm taking a bus to Mozambique tomorrow.  I hear tales of bounteous seafood and beach shacks.  Bring it!

Queen of the Road

I'M IN: Jeffrey's Bay, South Africa, having visited Hermanus, Cape Agulhas, Oudtshoorn (Ostrich Capital of the World) & The Crags
NEXT UP: Continuing along the coast to Durban, then Mozambique

What a indolent blogger I've been!  Much to tell.  First of all, I've officially been traveling for a year!  That's kind of neat, and something that this time last year seemed pretty much impossible.  As an anniversary challenge for myself (and because it's cheap and convenient) I rented a car a few days ago and am doing my first solo driving on foreign soil if you don't count Canada (and who does?).  I was incredibly nervous about the left-hand driving situation largely because they put the driver's side on the other side, too, and thus you are shifting with your left hand and everything feels generally weird and wrong.  I've made it my practice to exclaim "Keep Left!" aloud whenever turning or roundabouting or whatnot and this has worked wonderfully so far. 

I did manage to get a flat tire on the first day, but this turned out to be a great experience.  I was in Cape Agulhas - the Southernmost point in Africa, ya'll - which is pretty touristy and old folksy and Afrikaansy.  I pulled into a the Art Gallery by the Sea, as this was the first driveway available.  A woman about my make and model came out of the gallery, surveyed the situation, then changed the tire for me.  It took her about thirteen minutes start to finish.  I was totally flabbergasted and grateful.  I was standing around trying to be helpful but mostly just saying things like, "You're amazing!"  So that was incredible.

So for the past few days I've just been be-bopping down the coast, listening to the new things I managed to wrestle onto my iPod in Cape Town.  Mostly I've been listening to the book A New Earth and the Oprah and Eckhart podcasts about same - a recommendation from my ever awesome friend Alice.  I can't say I understand it per se, but I've found it really useful.  I would recommend it to any/everyone.

What else?  South Africa is such a beautiful country and there are so many different types of gorgeousness to gape at.  In that vein, pictures are updated and I'll see you here again sooner rather than later!